Car Maintenance Archives - Polishventure

4 Signs You Need New Brake Pads

POLISHVENTURE — Thu, 08 Sep 2022 07:58:52 +0000

1. You hear a high-pitched noise.

When the pad itself wears down to a dangerous extent, the indicator will scrape against the disc. This creates a distinctive grating noise which warns the driver that his or her current pads are in danger of eroding away altogether.

2. Bringing the car to a stop takes more time than it used to.

3. The brake pedal vibrates when pressed.

4. Your car pulls to one side when you brake

Your vehicle’s brake pads won’t always wear out at the exact same rate. Sometimes, those on one side will get thinner faster than their counterparts on the other side. Should this occur, the car may pull slightly to the left or right once you hit the brakes.

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Car Diagnostic Test & Why is it So Important?

POLISHVENTURE — Tue, 31 May 2022 03:02:21 +0000

Car diagnostic test can detect problems with your vehicle before they require expensive repairs, or worse, leave you stranded on the side of the road after a breakdown. And while many people think diagnostic tests are only necessary when the check engine light comes on, there are many benefits to taking a proactive approach to car maintenance.

What is a car diagnostic test?

Using specialized software, car diagnostic tools quickly and accurately point to problem areas in a car’s engine or elsewhere, thanks to built-in processors, microchips and sensors.

What areas of the car can be tested?

Diagnostic tests can reveal problems within a car’s engine, transmission, exhaust system, brakes, and other major components, as well as performance issues with the fuel injector, airflow and coolant, ignition coils, and throttle.

However, a common misconception about car diagnostic tests is that technicians can use code-reading tools to determine the exact problem that triggered the check engine light. In reality, the code tells technicians which engine or component parameters are out of range, but it does not detail the cause of the problems. That’s where the good old human brain comes in handy, as the technician uses experience and expertise to diagnose the underlying problem.

What are the benefits of a car diagnostic test?

Diagnostic tools can also check a car’s computer system for manufacturer notifications and stored information about the car’s history, giving technicians a complete picture in order to perform the best repair possible.

How often should a car undergo diagnostic testing?

You don’t have to wait for the check engine light to get a car diagnostic test. If you hear or feel something “off,” mechanics can use diagnostic testing to uncover the problem. However, many technicians recommend taking your car in for a diagnostic check at least once a year, which will uncover minor problems that can’t be seen or heard (and that won’t trigger the check engine light).

Diagnostic testing is also a useful tool when you’re checking out a used car. Both private sellers and professional car dealers should agree to a diagnostic test before you commit to buying, and if they don’t, that’s a sign you should walk away from the deal.

Credits: General Auto Repair

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Top 3 Shock Absorber Brands

POLISHVENTURE — Fri, 20 May 2022 04:27:28 +0000

Shock absorbers act as a cushion between the axles and the body. They reduce the shocks on the body produced by a rough road surface. These are the top performers.

1. Bilstein

In 1954, BILSTEIN revolutionized the damping technology and has always been recognized for its top quality and high performance as an innovative systems partner for the automobile industry.

2. Monroe

Monroe is one of the global automotive industry’s best known and most trusted brands, delivering innovative original equipment and aftermarket ride control solutions – including shock absorbers, struts, and steering and suspension components – to several generations of professional technicians and vehicle owners.

3. KYB

By consistently developing world-class ride control products, KYB has become the world’s largest supplier of OE and aftermarket shocks and struts.

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Exhaust Smoke Colour And What It Means

POLISHVENTURE — Mon, 17 Jan 2022 12:13:37 +0000

You can learn a lot about the health and well-being of your car from the color of its exhaust. If it’s operating in tip-top shape, tailpipe emissions should be nearly undetectable. If exhaust smoke is visible, you likely have a real problem

White Smoke

Often happens when an engine burns coolant that has leaked into the combustion chamber. The following are the most common culprits:
• Blown head gasket
• Damaged cylinder head
• Cracked engine block

Blue or Gray Smoke

This is an indication of the vehicle burning oil, which means that oil is somehow leaking into your engine’s combustion chamber. Culprits are:
• Malfunctioning valve stem seal
• Failed piston rings

Black Smoke

It doesn’t always indicate impending doom. If it continues well after the car warms up, there’s cause for concern. If that’s the case, here are the likely culprits:

Clogged or dirty air filter:
Bad fuel pressure regulator
Leaky or clogged fuel injectors

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How Long Do Wheel Bearings Last?

POLISHVENTURE — Fri, 17 Sep 2021 17:27:37 +0000

Wheel bearings are low maintenance parts, but that doesn’t mean they last forever. So, what does a wheel bearing actually do? How long does it last? And how can you help extend its lifespan?

What is a wheel bearing? And what does it do in a car?

A wheel bearing is a crucial part of the wheel assembly that connects the wheel and the axle. It is a set of steel balls (ball bearings) or tapers (tapered bearings), held together by a metal ring. It enables the wheel to rotate smoothly with a minimum of friction. Wheel bearings are safety-critical components designed to sustain radial and axial loads caused by gravitation, acceleration, braking & cornering forces, so they need to be replaced when they stop working properly.

How long does a wheel bearing last?

Wheel bearings have an average lifespan of 136,000 to 160,000 km. This is only a rule of thumb though, the actual lifespan of a wheel bearing depends on the quality of the wheel bearing and the operating conditions.

Why do wheel bearings fail?

The main reasons that a wheel bearing fails are:

Faulty installation – inappropriate tools such as a hammer or an impact wrench can cause damage to the exterior and or interior of the wheel end bearing causing the wheel bearing to fail prematurely. Also, re-using the old accessories such as bolts, nuts, circlips, split pins, seals,… instead of replacing them with new ones can cause the wheel end bearing to operate under abnormal or unsafe conditions, increasing wheel end bearing wear and risk of a car accident.

Impact damage or poor road quality – all impacts from driving through a pothole, driving over speed bumps or hitting the curbstone can damage a wheel bearing and reduce its lifespan.

Poor quality wheel bearing – a wheel bearing is continuously under enormous pressure. Wheel bearings constructed of low-quality materials can have poor heat-treatment, resulting in premature wear and failure.

Driving conditions – driving through deep water or mud can cause your wheel bearings to fail. Water, mud or other contaminants such as dust or road salt could get past the seals and enter the bearing, polluting the grease and wearing away the bearings.

Car modifications – fitting bigger or wider rims, tires with lower thread walls, stiffer shock absorbers and suspension springs cause higher loads on the wheel bearing and can accelerate wear. Stick to rims, tires, shock absorbers and springs that are specified by the car manufacturer to minimize the impact on the longevity of the wheel bearings.

What are the symptoms of bad wheel bearings

The symptoms of bad wheel bearings include:

1. Noise:

A humming, rumbling or growling noise that increases with acceleration or as the vehicle turns.

A loud constant whining or grinding noise when the vehicle is in motion.

Clunking noises when driving over uneven road surfaces.

2. Looseness, excessive play in the steering wheel (vague steering);

3. Steering wheel vibration which changes with the vehicle speed or as the vehicle turns;

4. ABS malfunctioning. ABS system issues can be related to failure of the ABS sensor that is integrated in the wheel end bearing.

What are the risks of driving with bad wheel bearings?

It’s very rare for wheel bearings to fail immediately and completely after you notice the first symptom(s).

Having said that, it is best to avoid driving with a worn wheel bearing for any length of time. As we’ve already seen, the wheel bearing is essential for connecting your wheel to your car, and any weakness in this connection could have severe consequences for your drive-axle and steering assembly – as well as for your safety.

Replacing your wheel bearings

Despite the fact that modern wheel bearings are easier to install than previous generations, correct installation, the usage of appropriate tools and respecting the specified torque values are still essential for maximum performance, durability and safety. Therefore, we recommend having your wheel bearings fitted by a professional mechanic that has the skills and the tools to do the job.

Quality replacement parts

When replacing your wheel bearings, it is essential to look for high quality parts. Polish Venture offers a complete range of easy to install, premium quality, long-lasting wheel end bearings that are engineered, manufactured, tested and validated to OEM standards for maximum performance and durability.

Source: Moog

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How To Check For Worn Ball Joints

POLISHVENTURE — Thu, 05 Aug 2021 05:49:35 +0000

Found in the suspension of virtually all modern cars, ball joints are an important part of the suspension system. They are one of the main suspension pivot points that connect the control arms of the vehicle to the steering knuckles or spindles. The front ball joints also allow the front wheels and suspension to move back and forth, as well as up and down, as the steering wheel is turned during driving and as the car moves over uneven road surfaces.

There are a number of signs that let you know that your ball joints may be starting to wear out.

These include:

Clunky or squeaky noises
Drifting to the side
Loose or shaky steering
Uneven tyre wear

How can you check for worn ball joints?

It’s possible that the symptoms of worn ball joints develop slowly, so you don’t notice for a while. But, if you have noticed any of the symptoms above, or would just like to double-check your ball joints, it’s best to first check your ball joints when driving before doing a visual inspection.

How to check your ball joints when driving

Checking your ball joints when driving is straightforward, simply:

1. Take your car out for a drive
Drive the vehicle on a public road at the speed limit and pay close attention to the engine, steering and overall performance of the car.

What to look out for

Vibrations – when a ball joint wears out, it becomes loose which can create a vibration that you can feel through the floor or the steering wheel while you drive.

Steering wheel wandering to the left or the right – worn ball joints cause the steering to pull from left to right on its own. This can also cause uneven wear on your tyres.

2. Drive over speed bumps
After driving at the speed limit, take it somewhere with speed bumps and drive it at a low speed. Stop and go a few times, and turn a few times.

What to look out for

Noise – this can be a clunking or squeaking noise. Clunking noises are caused by the worn ball joints rattling as the suspension travels up and down over the road. The squeaking noise is caused by the rubber boot that protects the grease inside the ball joint is damaged, the ball joint will start to squeak. These noises will get louder the more worn the ball joints become.

3. Turn the steering wheel
The last step is to park the car and turn the wheels back and forth a few times while listening for noise from the ball joints.

How to check ball joints visually

After checking your ball joints while driving, it’s time for a visual and physical inspection. Before you start, make sure you have the following tools ready:

Jack
Jack stands
Flashlight
Pry bar
Lug nut wrench
Wooden blocks or wheel chocks

A visual and physical inspection has the following steps:

1. Check your tyre wear

Loose ball joints can’t keep your suspension aligned while you drive. This accelerates tyre wear by causing the rubber tread to touch the ground in an inconsistent way. If you notice feathering (i.e. uneven spots of wear on a tyre) or that the front of the wheels points out (i.e. toe-out), there’s a good chance that your ball joints will need further investigation. However, if the tyre wear is equal on both sides, then the issue is probably not your ball joints, but due to under-inflation of the tyres.

2. Loosen the lug nuts

Loosen the lug nuts so they are hand-tight. This will allow you to move the wheel around on its axis, without removing it completely.

3. Jack up the car and place wheel chocks behind the wheels

Jack the front of the car up and secure it on jack stands. Put wheel chocks or wooden blocks behind the back wheels to prevent the car from rolling. This will make it easier to test the ball joints.

4. Rock the tyre on its axis

Grasp the top and bottom of the tyre and rock it in and out along the wheel’s vehicle axis. If the ball joints are working well, there should be little to no play in this movement.

What to look out for

Noise and play from the top – this indicates a problem with the upper ball joint.

Noise and play from the bottom – this suggests a problem with the lower ball joint.

5. Remove the wheel

Remove the wheel and use a flashlight to visually check the upper and lower ball joints.

What to look out for

Can you see any signs of rust, damage to the dust boot, grease leakage or any other potential problem? If so, it’s probably time to replace your ball joint.

6. Pry the ball joint apart

Use the pry bar and attempt to pry the lower control arm and the steering knuckle (the two components connected by the ball joint).

What to look out for

Excessive amounts of play and movement or clicking sounds are a sign that your ball joints are too loose.

7. Put the wheel back on

After you have finished visually inspecting and testing the ball joint, replace the wheel, lower the car and torque the lug nuts.

8. Repeat with the other wheels

After you have finished the first wheel, you need to check the other three, by following steps 2-7.

Quality ball joints

When replacing your ball joints, it’s important to go for quality – after all, your ball joints have to support the weight of your entire car.

Polish Venture has a range of quality, premium ball joints for all makes and models. Contact us to find the right ball joints for your car.

Source: MOOG

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How Long Do Shock Absorbers Last

POLISHVENTURE — Tue, 08 Jun 2021 09:35:38 +0000

There are many different types of suspension systems out there, but the most common by far is a combination of shock absorbers and struts. On older cars, shock absorbers are used on both the front and rear wheels, but modern cars use them primarily on the rear wheels, with strut assemblies on the front.

Both shocks and struts work in a similar way. They use either compressed gas or liquid to help absorb the lateral (up and down) movement of your car caused by bumps, dips, speed bumps, potholes and more.
You should have your shocks and struts inspected at each oil change.

In general, a shock absorber should last at least 70,000km before you need to have it replaced. However, the real determining factor is where you drive and how you drive. For instance, if you do a lot of off-road driving, or spend a lot of time on dirt roads, your shocks will wear out much more quickly. If you do primarily highway or interstate driving where the roads are smooth and level, they may last well beyond the 70,000-km mark.

Once your shocks begin to wear, they’ll fail quickly. What happens is that the end seals begin to wear. Eventually, they will fail. The gas or liquid inside the shock absorber will then leak out. In a liquid-based shock, this can be seen as moisture on the top of the shock absorber or running down the side of the assembly.

The signs that indicate you have a failing or failed shock include:

Knocking or bumping from the rear suspension
The vehicle does not sit level
Feeling that the rear end is “loose” while going around turns
The rear end bounces more than it should
Jarring ride over rougher roads
Even small bumps are very noticeable

If you think your shocks are in need of attention, contact us for FREE QUOTE

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Why Does My Car Vibrate When I Drive?

POLISHVENTURE — Tue, 04 May 2021 08:06:29 +0000

It’s normal for your car to vibrate slightly when you’re driving thanks to the rotation of the crankshaft, transmission gears and other moving parts in your engine. But, when these gentle vibrations feel more like shaking, it’s time to investigate the reasons why.

How to check your car for vibrations

The most common reasons for your car to excessively vibrate are a problem with your tyres, wheels, brakes, steering, suspension, axle or engine. Sounds like a lot of reasons, doesn’t it? Don’t worry. We’ll take a look at each in turn to see what the potential problems could be.

First, try to determine where the vibrations are coming from and when they start. Are the vibrations only noticeable when you start and accelerate the car? Do they only occur when you turn and brake? Do they only happen when you drive at high speed? Or maybe they increase in intensity as you accelerate?

Now you know when the vibrations start, let’s look at the possible reasons for the shaking.

Tyres

The most common reason for your car to shake is due to a problem with your tyres. These problems include:

Out of balance tyres

If you notice that the shaking is minimal at low speeds, but intensifies as you accelerate to 90km/h, there’s a good change this is due to your tyres being out of balance. The easiest way to check if this is the reason behind the excessive vibrations is look for flat spots on your tyres. Depending on the amount of damage, you might be able to solve the issue by simply getting your tyres rebalanced. However, if there is too much damage, you will need to replace the tyres.

Underinflated tyres

Underinflated tyres can cause your car to vibrate excessively when you drive at faster speeds. If you don’t find any flat spots on your tyres, it’s a good idea to check your air pressure matches the recommendations in your owners’ manual. Underinflated tyres can cause your tyres to blowout.

Uneven tyre wear

Tyres can be easily knocked out of alignment by various road hazards. This causes them to wear unevenly, for example, cupping (a wavy surface on the tyre thread) or excessive wear on one side. This can be solved by checking your tyres for damage and replacing and/or realigning your tyres (depending on the amount of damage on the tyres).

Tyre defects

An out-of-round (i.e. misshapen) tyre, or one where the tread or internal belts have separated from the body of the tyre, can cause your car to vibrate at low speeds (under 30km/h). While these types of problem could be due to a manufacturing defect, it can also be caused by severe road hazards.

Worn-out or bald tyres

If your tyres have little or no tread, your car will have poor traction, limited stopping ability and reduced cornering power. You will also be skidding around in poor weather conditions. The shaking is an additional warning that you need to replace your tyres.

Car rims

Another possible tyre-related reason are your rims. This could be caused by rough driving or hitting large bumps or potholes, causing the rims to bend, damaging your tyre.

Low rolling resistance tyres

Also known as low profile tyres, this type of tyre is increasingly common on hybrid and EV cars as they reduce drag and resistance, boosting their environmental credentials. However, they are harder than most drivers are used to, and offer less driving comfort as they don’t absorb as many of the imperfections on the road. This means that if your car has low rolling resistance tyres, it could be the reason for the vibrations, but it’s best to check other potential causes.

Wheels

After you’ve checked your tyres, turn your attention to your wheels. The vibrations could be caused by:

Unbalanced wheels

If you’ve hit a deep pothole or low curb without damaging your tyres, there’s still a chance that you’ve damaged your wheels, causing them to become unbalanced. Unfortunately, this is difficult to diagnose by yourself, so it’s best to talk to a qualified mechanic if you think this is the reason for your car’s vibrations.

Bent or damaged wheels

Deep potholes and other road hazards can bend or damage your wheels, causing your car to vibrate excessively. To diagnose this properly, you need to use a wheel balancing machine, which will tell you if it’s possible to repair the wheel or if you need to replace it.

Wheel runout

This is measured with a dial indicator and refers to any deviation from a perfectly circular rotation when it is spun. Depending on the measurements, the easiest solution is often a new wheel.

Wheel bearings

If you feel the vibrations through your steering wheel, there’s a good chance that your wheel bearings have become worn or damaged. While wheel bearings usually last the lifespan of your car, this isn’t always the case, especially if you regularly drive off-road, have high mileage or have a hard-driving style.

Brakes

If the vibrations aren’t due to a problem with your wheels or tyres, it’s a good idea to check your brakes. Some parts to check include:

Rotors / brake discs

If your brake discs have variations in their thickness, also known as excessive runout or being out-of-round, it will cause your car to vibrate when you brake. You can also feel the brake pedal vibrating when you press on it. The brake disc can become warped like this due to heavy wear and tear. In other words, the brake disc is overheated from more and heavier stopping than that particular brake disc can handle.

Caliper

It’s also possible for the brake calipers to get stuck on the brake disc. When this happens, you’ll notice vibrations through the steering wheel when you drive over 70km/h, and you could smell burning when you stop.

Brake drums

Just like brake discs, brake drums can also be out-of-round. You will feel additional vibrations when you press the brake pedal, along with a scraping or squealing noise.

Steering

The next place to check is the steering system. The vibrations could be caused by:

Loose components

Over time, the many parts of your steering will start to wear out, causing your steering to be less responsive than it should be. Where do you notice the vibrations most? If your steering is fine when you drive straight, but shakes when you go around a curve, it suggests a problem with worn out tie rod ends. However, if your steering wheel shakes when you drive straight but not when you turn, it implies you need to replace your ball joints.

Power steering

The power steering is another possible reason for your steering wheel to shakes when you’re turning a corner, but not when you’re driving along a straight road. To check if this is the cause, check your power steering for leaks and make sure your reservoir has enough power steering fluid.

Suspension

The suspension system is connected to the steering system, so it’s a logical next step. Possible reasons for the vibrations include:

Out of alignment

Driving into curbs or potholes can also cause your suspension to be out of alignment. One symptom of this is vibrations that are felt at different speeds.

Loose components

If you notice your car vibrates at certain speeds, but not every time you drive at that speed, there’s a chance the vibrations are caused by loose suspension components or bearings. You might notice that the vibrations increase if you hit a bump in the road and continue until you stop the car. It’s definitely worth checking that all the components in your suspension system are connected properly.

Worn components

Worn components, such as ball joints and control arm bushings, can cause vibrations at high speeds and when you brake. In this case, the vibrations are a warning that you need to check and maintain your suspension system, replacing any worn components.

Axle

The last part of the car to check before we get to the engine, is the axle. There are three parts that should be checked as the cause of the vibrations:

Bent axle

As we’ve seen, driving into a pothole can do a lot of damage to your car which isn’t immediately visible. Another potential complication from a pothole is a bent axle. If your axle is bent, your car will shake at increasing intensities, the faster you drive.

Damaged driveshaft

A driveshaft rapidly spins as it transfers engine power to the rear axles and wheels in rear-wheel drive vehicles (or the front axles and wheels in front-wheel drive vehicles). If this is bent, it can cause dramatic shaking.

Worn-out constant velocity (CV) joints

CV joints are rubber, accordion-like coverings (boots) around the ends of the drive axles that can cause vibrations if they are torn it allows dirt, dust and road filth to get in and damage the joints. If this happens on a front-wheel drive car, you will need to replace the drive axles.

Engine

The last part of your car to check is the engine. There are a number of parts that could cause the vibrations, including:

Spark plugs

Worn or dirty spark plugs can cause a petrol car’s engine to misfire in one or more cylinders, which can cause vibrations when the car is idling or at running speeds. The easiest solution is to replace your spark plugs and check the related wiring.

Air and fuel filters and intake

Engine vibrations can also be due to the air and fuel systems. Sometimes it just needs minor changes to the fuel intake system, for example adjusting the idle on a carburettor or cleaning the fuel intake system, for the problem to be solved.

Air and fuel filters should also be checked. A clogged, dirty or damaged air filter reduces the oxygen supply available for the ignition process, reducing the amount of fuel available as fuel flow is related to the amount of air that gets through. This results in your engine shaking due to a shortage of air and fuel in the engine. A clogged fuel filter causes your car to act in a similar way.

Loose or disconnected hoses

If any of the multiple hoses in your car – carrying air-fuel mixtures, radiator coolant, vacuum, etc. – is cracked, broken, loose or disconnected, it means that your engine doesn’t receive what it needs to work properly. This will cause your car to start to vibrate, misfire or stall out. It can be easily solved by replacing any bad hoses and checking all hose connections are secure.

Broken motor mounts

Motor mounts are located between the engine and the body of the car and they absorb engine vibrations while keeping your engine attached to the car. If any of your motor mounts are broken, you will feel the engine’s vibrations in your car whenever the engine is turned on, but the vibrations will be significantly less when the engine is simply idling. The only solution for this issue is to replace the motor mounts.

Faulty timing belt

The timing belt ensures the synchronization of your intake and exhaust valves with the movement of your pistons. Any issues with it, or any of the other belt-driven accessories, will throw off this precise calibration, causing your engine to shake. Replacing your timing belt if it is worn and damaged will solve the problem.

Credits: MOOG

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Save Money On Car Maintenance – Rotate Your Tires

POLISHVENTURE — Thu, 08 Apr 2021 08:59:05 +0000

With this crummy economy, we’re all looking for ways to save money. One way to save a few bucks is doing your own auto maintenance. We’ve already discussed how to change your own oil. Today we’re going to tackle another maintenance job that you can easily do yourself.

If you’re not careful, your car’s tires can become a big money pit. Tires aren’t cheap. A new one can set you back at least ksh 7000. If you go through a new set of tires every year, you’re looking at dropping at least ksh 28,000.

One simple way you can extend the life of your tires is regularly rotating them on your car. Tire rotation means changing where the individual tire is mounted on the car. Some people don’t ever have their tires rotated, and those that do usually let a garage take care of it. In today’s post we show you how.

Why Rotate Your Tires?

Front and rear tires wear differently. For example, the front tires carry more than 60% of your car’s weight; consequently, front tires wear down faster than the rear ones. Also, turning wears the front tires at different rates.
Rotating tires equalizes these natural wear patterns by changing the positions of your tires. By rotating your tires regularly, you’ll ensure yourself a smoother and safer ride. And more importantly (for me at least) you’ll save money in the long run by extending the life of your tires.

Oh, and it feels manly to flip tires around, too.

How Often Should You Rotate Tires?

Check your car’s owner’s manual for the recommended tire rotation schedule. Most manufacturers recommend that you rotate your tires every 10,000km. An easy way to remember to rotate your tires is to do it whenever you change the oil on your car.

Tools Needed

Car jack.
Jack stands

Rotation Pattern: Directional or Non-directional Tires?

Before we start loosening those nuts, we need to know what pattern we’re going to use to rotate our tires. The way you rotate your tires depends on a few factors, the biggest one being whether your car has directional or non-directional tires.

How to Rotate Directional Tires

Directional tires have a “one-way” tread pattern that are optimized for the direction the tires rotate on the car, so they’re specifically made for either the left or right side. The grooves are angled to optimize handling, and they also do a good job of channeling water out from under the tire on wet surfaces, reducing hydroplaning and improving wet traction.

Little arrows or triangles on the sidewall indicate which way the tire is supposed to turn.

To rotate directional tires, just switch the front right tire for the back right tire, and the front left tire for the back left tire, like this:

How to Rotate Non-directional Tires

The tread pattern on non-directional tires is designed in such a way that the tire can be mounted on the wheel for any direction of rotation. So you can switch which side the tires are on when you rotate them.

To rotate non-directional tires, use the cross pattern. For cars with rear-wheel drive, move the front tires to the opposite sides of the rear: left-front to right-rear and right-front to left-rear. The rear tires are moved straight forward. Here’s how it looks visually:

On vehicles with front-wheel drive, just do the opposite. Move the rear tires to the opposite sides of the front and move the front tires straight back.

Rotate the Spare In?

Some old car maintenance guides recommend that drivers rotate their spare tire into use in order to give one of the tires a much needed break. The problem with this advice is that the vast majority of modern spare tires aren’t designed for extended driving. They’re often smaller and feature a lighter-weight construction and shallower tread depth. They’re designed to simply get you to a shop to fix the original tire. That’s it.

Some cars still come equipped with full-size matching spare tires. Off road vehicles and many SUVs usually have them. If you have a car that has a matching spare tire, it isn’t a bad idea to rotate it into use. Here’s a diagram for the suggested rotation:

Credits: AOM

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Save Money on Car Maintenance – How to Change Your Own Engine Oil

POLISHVENTURE — Mon, 29 Mar 2021 18:01:44 +0000

Ever since I’ve owned a car, I’ve always taken it to a garage to get the oil changed. Every 5,000 km I would find myself sitting in a lounge munching on complimentary donuts while some other man changed my oil.

But it never felt right.

I would stare out the window into the garage and watch the mechanics work on my car. I would think, “That looks easy. Why am I paying another man ksh 1500 for a job that I could do myself?”

In addition to the resentment I felt for paying another man to change my oil, I was also jealous. I admired the knowledge and skills those men who worked on my car had, and I wanted to be able to do it too.

Of course, I never did anything about it, mainly out of laziness.

Well, after 10 years of taking my car to a garage to change my oil, I finally got around to learning how to change the oil in my car last month. And boy did it feel good.

Below, I provide a short guide on how to change the oil in your car. Let’s get started

The Benefits of Changing Your Oil Yourself

Save money. Getting your oil changed at the petrol station or similar shops usually runs between ksh 3000 to ksh 3500. Approximately 30% the cost goes to labour. They have deals every now and then, but they’re few and far between. Changing your oil yourself will only set you back about ksh 2000 for a new filter and some new oil. In this tough economy, every little bit helps. The manly man is self-reliant and frugal.

You won’t get stuff stolen from your car.

You’ll feel manly. Nothing will boost your manly confidence like learning a manual skill and doing a job yourself. The satisfaction you get after changing your oil is way more fulfilling than the satisfaction you’ll get getting a perfect score on Guitar Hero. You’ll get your hands greasy, and you’ll have the manly smell of sweat and oil emanate from you.

How to Change Your Motor Oil

Gather your tools and materials. You don’t need much to change your oil. Below we list the essentials:

New oil filter. Different cars require different sized oil filters. Contact us to confirm the correct oil filter you need. We only need your car make, model and year.

Oil. You need enough oil to refill your engine after you drain it. Most cars require 4 or 5 litres of oil. Also, make sure you get the correct oil grade for your car. Read our article on conventional vs synthetic engine oil

Oil filter wrench. Sometimes you can get the filter off just by unscrewing it by hand. If it’s too tight, bust out an oil filter wrench. It’s an attachment that you put on the end of a socket wrench. Make sure you get the right size filter wrench attachment for the size of your oil filter.

Socket wrench set. You’ll need a socket wrench to unscrew the drain plug and maybe to unscrew the oil filter.

Something to catch the old oil. Anything will work. You can get a fancy oil drip pan or you can use an old bucket.

A funnel.

Some old rags. In case you drop the oil plug into the oil pan and you need to wipe it off. They’re also good for wiping off your hands.
Car ramp. While not a necessary item, it can make your job easier. You can buy plastic ramps that will elevate your car’s front off the ground. This will give you more room to work underneath your car.

Warm up your car. To ensure that you drain all the old oil out of your engine block, warm it up by taking your car for a spin. You don’t want the oil to be too hot, just warm enough so it thins out a bit. To tell if your car is warmed up enough, just turn on your heater. When your feet get nice and toasty, you’re ready to drain the oil.

Park the car on a flat surface. Park your car on a flat surface and engage the parking break. If you have those ramps, place them in front of your front wheels and drive up them. It’s always good to have someone out front guiding you so you don’t end up driving off the other end of the ramps. For added safety, put blocks behind both rear tires.

Pop the hood and remove the oil filler cap. Removing the oil filler cap can help the oil drain faster. It allows air to flow into the engine as the oil drains out.

Remove the oil plug. Locate the oil plug underneath your car. It’s pretty easy to find. It’s a fairly large bolt on the oil pan’s bottom. Take an appropriate sized socket or wrench and start unscrewing the nut.

If the nut is too tight, try this little trick: get a piece of pipe that’s a bit longer than your socket wrench and place it over your socket wrench’s handle. This will give you some added leverage.

Don’t remove the oil plug completely with your wrench or you risk getting oil all over the place. Loosen it enough so that you can start unscrewing it with your fingers. Before you remove the plug, place your drip pan underneath the hole. When everything looks lined up, remove the plug. Make sure to hold onto the oil plug tightly or else you’ll have to fish for it in your drip pan.

Here is how an oil filter looks like

Let the oil drain. After you remove the oil plug, let the oil drain out completely. It takes about 2 minutes for most engines to drain.

Remove the oil filter. Probably the hardest part in removing an oil filter is finding it on your engine. The first time I changed the oil, I spent a couple of minutes underneath my car scratching my head looking for the damn thing. The problem is there isn’t a standard position for where oil filters go, so it could be on your engine’s side, back, bottom, or top. Just look at your new oil filter and start looking underneath your car for something that looks similar. That’s your oil filter.

Now if the car manufacturer decides to put your filter in a weird place, it can be hard to remove. You might have to contort your arm in weird ways to unscrew it, but be assured you can remove it.

Oftentimes you can simply unscrew the filter by hand. However, if it’s too tight, bust out your filter wrench. Give it a few turns until it loosens up. Once it does, remove the filter wrench and finish unscrewing the filter by hand.

Before you remove the filter, make sure to have your drip pan underneath it. When you remove the filter a good stream of oil will come out.

When you remove the oil filter, make sure the rubber gasket ring comes off with it. If it stays on the car, the new filter won’t get an adequate seal on the engine.

Install the new oil filter. Dip your finger in some new oil and smear it on the gasket ring of your new filter. This will help the filter seat better against the engine. Thread the new filter onto the hole where the oil filter goes. It doesn’t take much to tighten your oil filter. Tighten it with your fingers until it stops turning. Then give it one more strong half turn. That should do the trick. Some oil filters come with instructions on how many turns you need to give a filter to tighten it. When in doubt, follow the instructions.

Replace the oil plug. Some mechanics suggest replacing the sealing washer on your oil plug before you start tightening it. If it’s a metal one in good condition, you can get away without replacing it. Put the washer in place and thread the drain plug back into its hole. Start tightening. When it’s nice and tight get out from under your car and remove the drip pan.

Refill the engine with oil. Place your funnel in the oil filler hole on the top of your engine and start filling your car up with new oil. Again, depending on the car, 4 to 5 litres should do the trick. Once the oil is all in, screw on the oil cap and close the hood.

Let the car run. When you’re all done, start the car and let it run for about 5 minutes. This does two things. First, it allows your engine to regain proper oil pressure. Second, it gives you a chance to see if you have any leaks near your oil plug and oil filter. If you see any leaks, stop the car and tighten the plug and filter as needed.

Dispose of your old oil.

Credits: AOM

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